Honeymoon Safari – Kenya Part 2

Emotions were running high as Jacqi and I boarded our plane to depart from the Laikipia Plateau. The first half of our trip had been a marvelous success that exceeded even our wildest expectations, and although we were sorry to leave Ol Lentille behind we were excited to see what the Maasai Mara had in store for us. My wife managed to catch some much needed rest during the flight across the country, but I found myself periodically glancing out the windows with restless anticipation. At one point, I noticed that the view on both sides of the aircraft was dominated by large lakes sprawling out across the landscape. My heart skipped a beat. I knew of only one place in Kenya where multiple bodies of water of this size occurred in close proximity, but I was not expecting to find myself anywhere near it. After the unscheduled diversion to Lewa, it seemed that our updated flight path was taking us right over the heart of the Great Rift Valley. Craning my neck to peer at the shoreline far below, I noticed that the entire northern coast of the more southerly lake, Elementaita, was fringed with a thin, pale-hued ribbon. I hastily fired off a documentation photograph, and zooming in on the image confirmed my suspicions: this lengthy pastel smudge was composed of untold thousands of distinct pink dots. I had dreamed of one day witnessing the famous congregations of Lesser Flamingos that occur in this region, but I never imagined that I would observe this world-class spectacle of abundance from high altitude in a plane! I took this most unexpected life list addition as an auspicious sign of things to come during the next leg of our adventure.

A gradual shift from agricultural fields framed by brushy hillsides to a vast expanse of open savanna broken only by wooded river corridors signaled that we were nearing our destination. We made a rapid series of brief stops at different airstrips to drop guests off for transport to the various lodges, and I picked up yet another airplane lifer in the form of a Marabou Stork circling at eye level as we jumped between runways. When we finally arrived at the Kichwa Tembo airstrip in the northern section of the Mara Triangle, our guide, Denzol, greeted us with a champagne toast. We were then introduced to Steph, our fellow safari patron, and loaded our gear into the Land Cruiser to head to camp. The drive took us less than an hour, but it quickly became apparent that there was an abundance of wildlife everywhere we looked. A cooperative Hamerkop foraging in a roadside pool was the first of many new bird species, as well as an exciting monotypic family representative for my lifetime tally. We encountered small bands of Topi and Defassa Waterbuck along the way, and we could also see large herds of Elephants lumbering across the plains in the distance. A family group of Maasai Giraffes, our third species for the trip, greeted us at the outskirts of the camp compound, much to Jacqi’s delight. It was clear that we were in for an incredible safari experience here in the Mara.

Upon checking in at &Beyond Bateleur Camp with the manager, Richard, we were introduced to the team of onsite staff, including Benson, our lovely butler, Joseph the waiter, and the ever-creative Chef Jackson. After dropping off our bags in our room and enjoying a tasty meal, we set out with Denzol and Steph on an afternoon game drive. The numbers and diversity of wildlife that we observed, even during this preliminary outing, absolutely blew us away. Within minutes of departing from the lodge, we came upon an adorable pair of Spotted Hyena cubs loafing outside their den, while a Nile Monitor basked along the shore of a stream a short distance away. A pair of massive bull Elephants grazing right next to the road offered us an incredible opportunity to get up close and personal with these largest of all land animals. Their impressive tusks and blanket-sized ears were a sight to behold, and watching them methodically gather bundles of grass with their dexterous trunks was a truly mesmerizing experience. Hippos snorted and bellowed in a nearby muddy pool as Cape Buffalo watched us warily from the sidelines, with flocks of hungry Yellow-billed Oxpeckers and Western Cattle Egrets in close attendance. Denzol’s in-depth familiarity with the local critters and their usual haunts proved to be an invaluable asset during our safari efforts. A short offroad detour brought us to a densely vegetated gully where the resident Lions had stashed a recent kill. We were treated to jaw-dropping views of a beautiful Lioness, her two cubs, and the pride’s second-in-command male as they lazed about in the tall grass like overgrown housecats. Jacqi and I could scarcely believe our luck! The Mara was somehow even better than we could have ever imagined!

The pocket of dense forest surrounding Bateleur Camp itself proved to be a productive hub for wildlife sightings in its own right. Our check-in lunch was crashed by a female Southern Bushbuck and a large Common Warthog, and the following day featured a visit from an inquisitive band of Common Dwarf Mongoose. The back patio of our luxurious tent also offered a sweeping view of the savanna, making it possible to spot herds of Elephants and Giraffes from our own bedroom. We were cautioned that the local primates could be mischievous at times, which we witnessed firsthand when a cheeky Blue Monkey nicked a handful of bread from our breakfast table. In contrast, the smaller Red-tailed Monkeys were considerably more polite, patiently waiting for an opportunity to drink from the outdoor showerhead until after we were finished bathing. Birders know well that patches of differing habitat, especially woodland edges, can be especially beneficial for biodiversity, and this unassuming little grove was no different. Black-backed Puffbacks, Green-backed Camaropteras, and Tropical Boubous contributed their voices to an unfamiliar soundscape, while secretive species like Red-chested and Klaas’s Cuckoos flitted furtively through the understory. Both Schalow’s and Ross’s Turacos inhabited the upper branches of the canopy, and we were treated to fantastic views of the latter’s brilliant plumage and Muppet-like visage. We also had the pleasure of watching Long-crested and Martial Eagles as they surveyed the surrounding grasslands in search of prey. It seemed that everywhere you looked in the Maasai Mara, there was something new to see!

The primary objective of our first full day in the Mara Triangle was to bear witness to the Great Migration, with more than a million White-bearded Wildebeest, hundreds of thousands of Plains Zebras, and a multitude of other large grazers making the long journey from Tanzania on foot. This celebrated natural phenomenon is one of the main reasons July and August are considered peak safari season in Kenya, though the precise arrival timing of the wandering herds can vary depending on rainfall totals and the subsequent growth of the grasses. As it happens, Jacqi and I managed to time our honeymoon perfectly, with the first river crossings of the season documented mere days before we reached the Mara. If we had switched up the order of our itinerary and chosen to end at Ol Lentille instead, we might have missed the show altogether!

Following up on tips from fellow guides and tuning into the radio chatter play-by-plays of the herds’ movements, Denzol expertly navigated us to a particular stretch of the Mara River where he predicted a crossing would be most likely to occur. We spent just about an hour waiting in eager anticipation, watching as the masses of mammals stalled at the riverbank. Wildebeest prefer to move as a unit, but none seemed to want to be the first to brave the river and face a gauntlet of potential hidden predators. We had seen a number of Nile Crocodiles and a few Lions lurking at other sites along the shoreline earlier in the morning, but it seemed that the herbivores had picked a relatively safe spot this time. Even so, they were unsurprisingly hesitant to take the leap of faith. At one point, nearly the entire herd seemed to abort the attempt, backtracking en masse and streaming off towards the distant plains like an enormous swarm of ants. Fortunately, all it takes is for one individual to take the plunge. We watched a small handful of the remaining Wildebeest descend the muddy banks, and a chorus of splashing sounds a moment later signaled that the crossing had officially begun. In an instant, the herd reversed course, stampeding back towards the river to join the charge. Denzol positioned us perfectly for an unobstructed view of the action at a respectful distance, and we watched as hordes of Wildebeest and Zebras rushed across the flowing waters and up the slippery slope on the opposite side. It was, in the truest sense of the word, an absolute spectacle to behold. Jacqi and I felt incredibly fortunate to be in the presence of one of the natural world’s most remarkable dramas.

The rest of the day had a tough act to follow after such a magnificent morning, but the afternoon managed to deliver an impressive suite of iconic safari specialties that rivaled even the excitement of the Great Migration! As we headed back to camp for a lunchbreak, we stumbled upon a cooperative pair of Common Ostriches right next to the road. I was thrilled to enjoy this close encounter with the largest extant birds on the planet. The male’s 9-foot-tall frame cut an especially imposing figure, enhanced by his voluminous monochrome plumage and the rich blush of his lengthy neck. The evening outing was highlighted by one of the rarest and most sought after animals in Africa: a mother Black Rhinoceros and her calf. These mighty beasts are classified as critically endangered due to the ongoing threat of poaching, and those populations that do remain are closely monitored and heavily guarded. It was a great honor to watch this little Rhino family go about their day, trundling through the dense grass and eventually settling down for a nap near a well-hidden mud wallow. We celebrated our successes with some sundowner cocktails out in the bush, and Steph was kind enough to take some lovely photos of Jacqi and me to commemorate the occasion.

Our day closed out with a night drive that featured impressive numbers of grazing Hippos, small groups of Giraffes and Elephants, and a new life bird in the form of a Water Thick-knee. I even managed to pick out a tiny African Marsh Rat with my thermal scope, which also netted us glimpses of Thomson’s Gazelles, several hares, and a handful of nightjars. Though it was tempting to stay out all night searching for nocturnal critters, Jacqi and I made a point to get to bed at a reasonable hour. We knew that we had a predawn wakeup call scheduled in order to make our planned hot air balloon trip, one of the most highly anticipated activities of the entire honeymoon!

We awakened the next day under cover of darkness, so early that the creatures of the night had not yet gone to sleep. While I was waiting for Jacqi outside the room with our night guard escort, he pointed out a Brown Greater Galago, also known as the Thick-tailed Bushbaby, scrambling through the branches overhead! The balloon launch site was a quick drive up the road from our camp, and after a brief orientation presentation we were swiftly ushered over to our assigned aircraft. The envelope gradually filled with air as the burners roared to life, and we gingerly scrambled up into the basket to prepare for takeoff. As the massive balloon slowly began rising into the skies, we turned to watch a spectacular sunrise peeking over the distant horizon, painting the vast landscape with the first colors of daylight.

Words cannot express the serene beauty of the Maasai Mara when viewed from the air. This balloon trip was, quite simply, one of the coolest things I have ever experienced. Our pilot’s deft control of his vessel allowed us to switch between high altitude bird’s-eye views and hovering just above the treetops at a moment’s notice. The savanna animals were out in force as they prepared to begin their days, and our unique vantage point afforded us some genuinely incredible photo ops. We floated lazily over herds of Elephants foraging at the forest’s edge, gazed down in wonder at towering Giraffes, and swooped low over marshy wetlands and riverine corridors where I picked up life birds like Rameron Pigeon, Long-toed Lapwing, and Black-and-white-casqued Hornbill. When we finally drifted back down to Earth, landing with a few gentle bumps in the middle of the plains, we were met by a transport team who ferried us to a nearby encampment for a delicious breakfast in the bush. What a way to start the day!

Once we had eaten our fill, Denzol arrived in the Land Cruiser to keep the fun going with a morning game drive. Our target destination for the day was the southern portion of the Mara Triangle, closer to the border of Tanzania, where the grass was a bit shorter due to more recent burns. In a habitat as expansive as the savanna, minor regional differences like the height and density of the vegetation can have a major impact on local species composition. This extended foray proved to be well-worth the effort, as we came over a slight rise and spotted a pair of tall, leggy creatures hanging out in the middle of the road up ahead. I could hardly believe my eyes! Secretarybirds! Our single most wanted bird for the entire trip, and an animal that I have been daydreaming about one day meeting since early childhood! These striking terrestrial raptors are truly unique in terms of both lifestyle and morphology, classified in a taxonomic family all their own due to their curious evolutionary history. Secretarybirds are essentially eagles on stilts, and they patrol the vast plains on foot in search of snakes, rodents, and other small animals, which they kill with powerful precision kicks of their sturdy stems. I certainly did not want to leave Africa without encountering these iconic, charismatic predators, but after several days of searching I was starting to get a bit nervous about my chances. Denzol confessed that he, too, had been starting to feel the pressure to deliver, even asking other guides if they had seen any recently, to no avail. We were incredibly lucky to have stumbled upon this remarkably cooperative pair, and watching them in action up close was an unexpected thrill! The birds preened and stretched while surveying their surroundings, periodically fanning the wild plumes of their expressive crests as they strutted about. After a few moments, they both spread their wings and sprinted a short distance before vaulting into the air, disappearing in the distance as they sailed away together. A truly awesome experience with a truly awesome critter!

We briefly paused for a photo shoot at the stone signposts that marked the official boundary between Kenya’s Maasai Mara and the Serengeti of Tanzania before continuing on with our safari. A delightful variety of close encounters with wildlife kept us entertained along the way, including a passing Black-backed Jackal, a skittish Bohor Reedbuck, and impressive herds of Wildebeest, Topi, Eland, and Thomson’s Gazelles. Following up on a tip from some of Denzol’s friends, we found a recent Leopard kill, a partially consumed Wildebeest lodged in the crotch of a tree, but unfortunately that was the closest we came to seeing the big cat. We kept a weather eye out for Cheetahs, which favor more open expanses of short grass, but there were none to be found during this visit. Truth be told, Jacqi and I had extraordinary luck with both top-billed highlights and our own wish list targets, so it feels silly to spend any appreciable amount of time dwelling on the small handful of noteworthy species that we missed! No trip is perfect, but in all honesty ours came pretty damn close!

There are, of course, some critters that possess both headliner charisma and personal significance to Jacqi and me, Giraffes being perhaps the most prominent. The Northern Giraffes in Nairobi provided us with a memorable hands-on experience, and we both agreed that the Reticulated Giraffe has our favorite pattern of the bunch, but it was the Maasai Giraffes of the Mara that we got to know the best over the course of our honeymoon safari. It was genuinely mind-blowing to me that such a massive, magnificent mammal should be such a commonplace sight almost everywhere we went. We would often leave one herd just to happen upon another moments later, and their placid, gentle demeanor meant that we got to spend some quality time admiring them at close range. One of the groups that liked to hang around just outside our camp was watching over an adorable new baby, so fresh that it still had a bit of dried umbilical cord hanging from its belly. We also got to witness a dramatic battle between two large bulls, locked in a bout of necking so intense that we could hear dull thud of each strike echoing across the savanna. In a world full of remarkable and awe-inspiring organisms, Giraffes undoubtedly rank among the most impressive animals on Planet Earth. 

The birding in the Mara was nothing short of spectacular, even beyond the unforgettable encounter with my beloved Secretarybirds. I managed to do shockingly well with vultures, a group of birds that is unfortunately experiencing devastating declines all across Africa, simply by snapping photos of soaring birds whenever possible. Even from the back of a moving vehicle on bumpy terrain, I managed to secure a few doc shots of species that I might have otherwise missed. My sightings over the course of few days exploring the Triangle included critically endangered White-backed, Hooded, and White-headed Vultures and Rüppell’s Griffons as well as endangered Lappet-faced Vultures. Flooded marshy areas and roadside lily ponds delivered unexpected wetland birds like Dwarf Bittern, African Jacana, and Saddle-billed Stork, and the grassy savannas themselves were home to White-bellied Bustards, Yellow-throated Longclaws, and Harlequin Quail. Jacqi and I never grew tired of watching vibrantly plumed Lilac-breasted Rollers hawk insects from their roadside perches, and we made a point to savor our time with other iconic safari specialties like ostriches, oxpeckers, and Marabou Storks. We knew that the honeymoon would not last forever, and we were resolved to make the most of our adventure while we still could!

The final game drive of the trip saw us taking a brief farewell tour highlighted by a number of the Mara’s greatest hits. We said our goodbyes to the Lions, still lounging at the site of their kill, now picked clean. Our final sightings of Hippos and various antelope signaled the rapidly approaching end of our tour, and we took some time to admire the herds of Elephants roving across the plains. Our last full day in Kenya drew to a close with a grand finale sundowner, sipping wine and watching dusk settle over the landscape with our new friends. After a nonstop series of exciting activities, it was nice to kick back and unwind for a bit, raising our glasses in a toast to a successful expedition!

Our last scheduled outing of the trip was a walking safari, led by a handful of guides from Bateleur Camp. We were also accompanied by an armed guard, and the necessity of this precaution was quickly driven home when we crossed paths with a particularly ornery Cape Buffalo right outside the gates of the compound! Using a departing van as a shield to cover our passage, we managed to safely slip by the grumpy bull without incident, continuing our trek up the foothill slopes of the Oloololo Escarpment. I managed to add a handful of new birds to my list during this lovely stroll, including Tambourine Dove, Spot-flanked Barbet, and Golden-breasted Bunting. The true highlight, however, was a pair of Maasai Giraffes that we unexpectedly encountered at the summit of our hike. Under the watchful eyes of these serene sentinels, Jacqi and I basked in the glow of one last Kenyan sunrise from our commanding vantage point atop the ridge. We eventually had to start making our way back to base for breakfast, exchanging heartfelt farewells with Denzol and all of the other staff who helped to make our stay with &Beyond so memorable. Rather fittingly, we were seen off by a Bateleur that swooped low over the airstrip as we waited to depart from the camp that bears its name. When we finally landed back in Nairobi, we were pleased to connect with Ali again for our transport to the international airport, where we began our final preparations for the long journey across the Atlantic towards home.

When all was said and done, our honeymoon safari was a roaring success by any measure. We tallied a grand total of 40 new mammals and a whopping 241 different species of birds, with 225 of those being lifers for me. On top of that, both of our priority “dream animals,” Giraffes and Secretarybirds, proved to be more confiding and cooperative than we ever could have imagined. Over the course of our explorations in Nairobi, Laikipia, and the Mara, Jacqi and I shared countless unforgettable experiences, and we also made plenty of new friends who we will hopefully meet again someday! We can only hope that fate leads us back to Kenya at some point, but until then we will hold the memories we have forged together close in our hearts for the rest of our lives. I could not have asked for a better honeymoon, or a better wife to share it with! We are eagerly looking forward to the next grand adventure!